Hanoi to Vientiane, Lao
24 hours on a bus, 2 hours waiting at the border, a downpour, mist rising through the jungled mountains. We 20 or so men, one lady, and one more tag-along we picked up at the border (she had forgotten her passport in Hanoi, so waited a day for friends to bring it) looked like a human jenga game as we tried to extricate ourselves from the seats. We each had a seat to ourselves (and one 25kg sack of rice/ pig feed/ better disguised opium?) and were sprawled out trying to get comfortable. We had the friendly bus apparently, as the other stopped in the middle of the night to load black plastic-wrapped packages, which they put under bricks in the aisle. A bit shady, to say the least. But, running foreigners across the border as their cover got them through customs...
A few noteable sights as I was leaving Vietnam (yes, a pic is worth more but I'll try not to use 1000 words, didn't have camera handy):
live pigeons (presumably for sale as food) bundled together by their ankles on display, with the hawk that caught them standing guard nearby...
goldfish (the large ones) for sale off the back of a bicycle...
dogs on their way to the market (don't worry, they don't eat their own puppies, these were imported from Lao and Thailand)...
a string across the road for security at the border with Lao...
This list will grow, I'm sure. I'm not even listing the things that seem commonplace now, such as frogs with heads cut off, still hopping around in buckets at the market.
Vientiane, Lao was indeed a small, quiet town. Lots of friendly smiles and "sabaidee" (hello) greetings. That is a welcome sight. And, it's hard to get them to sell you anything! No one rushes over to you and hands you something, which, at that point, indicates the assumption you're going to buy it...
Yesterday, in Vong Vieng, I did some "caving," though I didn't get far without a flashlight, and was led to the best swimming hole by three young Lao boys. Took morning bus from Vientiane, stayed for 6 hours to run around the rice paddies, and then got on late bus for Luang Prabang. Will stop here for a couple days, to do the volunteer project I mentioned to many of you. Hopefully that will lead to small villages surrounded by bamboo thickets and streams. Will update again soon. Sabaidee.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Guilin, China
Town out of the Landscape Paintings
After one of the longest days in China, waiting at the Shanghai airport all day for my evening flight, because I booked in hurry one day, so didn't get to check all my options. Next time, just head to the airport and find a flight that leaves when you're ready for it to leave!
On bus from Guilin airport, I could catch a glimpse of the karst/limestone rock formations rising from the otherwise flat landscape.
Locals (or Chinese tourists) were out late at the clubs, with techno music thumping down the street. Found some dinner at midnight, paying prices designed for tourists (food was cheapest in Beijing, as was transportation, many things are subsidized in the capital city).
For my one full day in Guilin, I went to a neon-light lit cave. Despite the gaudiness, it had some interesting formations, and was refreshingly cool.
Located the badminton gym, where I only had to watch for 5 minutes before I was invited to play. I held my own against the formidable Chinese contingent. The others were in their mid-20s, so close in age. They invited me for a sweet dessert/drink (with beans and aloe) afterwards, and to party later that night. Mostly foreigners at the party, exchange students at the nearby public university. My group, following my lead, got the dance floor started...
After one of the longest days in China, waiting at the Shanghai airport all day for my evening flight, because I booked in hurry one day, so didn't get to check all my options. Next time, just head to the airport and find a flight that leaves when you're ready for it to leave!
On bus from Guilin airport, I could catch a glimpse of the karst/limestone rock formations rising from the otherwise flat landscape.
Locals (or Chinese tourists) were out late at the clubs, with techno music thumping down the street. Found some dinner at midnight, paying prices designed for tourists (food was cheapest in Beijing, as was transportation, many things are subsidized in the capital city).
For my one full day in Guilin, I went to a neon-light lit cave. Despite the gaudiness, it had some interesting formations, and was refreshingly cool.
Located the badminton gym, where I only had to watch for 5 minutes before I was invited to play. I held my own against the formidable Chinese contingent. The others were in their mid-20s, so close in age. They invited me for a sweet dessert/drink (with beans and aloe) afterwards, and to party later that night. Mostly foreigners at the party, exchange students at the nearby public university. My group, following my lead, got the dance floor started...
Quirks of Hanoi, Vietnam
Comments on VN so far
I now know it's possible to have a traffic jam in a city of motorbikes - I was stuck in gridlock.
Funeral procession this morning, complete with monks, nuns, mourners with white headbands, and a coffin-carrying bus. Filled up the street.
Traffic rules as far as I can tell: You're only responsible for what's in front ofyou. If you can inch your nose ahead of another vehicle, you now have the right of way! Just beware, ready to dodge dangling power lines at head level in the middle of the road.
Looking left-right-left is for amateurs - just walk straight across, with eyes on your destination, or map...
Got lost first 3 days attempting to return to hotel. There are no square blocks or direct roads in Hanoi!
All manner of business is conducted on the sidewalk: making stoves, bamboo ladders, fixing bikes, fruit stand, beer garden, florist, painting mannequins (and flowers), restaurant...
Went to couple of bars on Saturday night, where bellydancing, all the rage now, was being performed. Therefore, the only ones on the "dance floor" were the performers - even after they were done, no one would join me on the floor... The garage door shutters were closed at 12:00, per government regulations, but the music and drinking continued unfazed. Second club was on a barge on the river, so, apparently, far enough from residences to allow it to officially stay open later.
Pouring down rain on Sunday. Nice to have the road to myself - everyone stayed indoors. But, even this Seattleite donned a rain poncho (less substantial than garbage bag quality plastic).
Taking the overnight bus (20 hours?) to Vientiane, Lao tonight. Looking forward to a change of pace - by all accounts, calmer, friendlier in Lao. So, I should get this one posting from VN published!
I now know it's possible to have a traffic jam in a city of motorbikes - I was stuck in gridlock.
Funeral procession this morning, complete with monks, nuns, mourners with white headbands, and a coffin-carrying bus. Filled up the street.
Traffic rules as far as I can tell: You're only responsible for what's in front ofyou. If you can inch your nose ahead of another vehicle, you now have the right of way! Just beware, ready to dodge dangling power lines at head level in the middle of the road.
Looking left-right-left is for amateurs - just walk straight across, with eyes on your destination, or map...
Got lost first 3 days attempting to return to hotel. There are no square blocks or direct roads in Hanoi!
All manner of business is conducted on the sidewalk: making stoves, bamboo ladders, fixing bikes, fruit stand, beer garden, florist, painting mannequins (and flowers), restaurant...
Went to couple of bars on Saturday night, where bellydancing, all the rage now, was being performed. Therefore, the only ones on the "dance floor" were the performers - even after they were done, no one would join me on the floor... The garage door shutters were closed at 12:00, per government regulations, but the music and drinking continued unfazed. Second club was on a barge on the river, so, apparently, far enough from residences to allow it to officially stay open later.
Pouring down rain on Sunday. Nice to have the road to myself - everyone stayed indoors. But, even this Seattleite donned a rain poncho (less substantial than garbage bag quality plastic).
Taking the overnight bus (20 hours?) to Vientiane, Lao tonight. Looking forward to a change of pace - by all accounts, calmer, friendlier in Lao. So, I should get this one posting from VN published!
Sample of the foods on offer
Street stall food on Beijing's "Walking Road" fancy shopping district
Here's (left to right) snail (nice that it's pre-shelled, saves you effort),
starfish - which I never knew was edible, kind of a meaty, turkey-stuffing taste with a couscous texture,
"Sea Snake" (not sure what that might be) - most pricey item, not particularly fabulous,
and octopus (just your standard tentacles).
Here's (left to right) snail (nice that it's pre-shelled, saves you effort),
starfish - which I never knew was edible, kind of a meaty, turkey-stuffing taste with a couscous texture,
"Sea Snake" (not sure what that might be) - most pricey item, not particularly fabulous,
and octopus (just your standard tentacles).
Inaugural Posting by Postel
Greetings from the road. Hanoi, Vietnam, October 23 2008
Finally get a chance to get my first blog to the publisher. I am at a resting point in Vietnam, having spent the last 3 weeks moving about Thailand and China. Some thoughts so far, in no particular order, just what comes to mind:
China, 8 years after my first visit, was a brand new country, 5000 years after its founding. The daily articles and stories in the US media hinted at what was happening there. I can verify it, firsthand. Arriving from Bangkok on Egypt Air (its stopover from Cairo to Beijing), I was impressed by the brand new Terminal 3 - built to handle (and impress) the foreigners showing up for the 08 Olympics. Friendly greeting at the passport booth, and I was on a train to the another new building to pick up my baggage.
Juxtapose that with entering VN, 4 days ago, where I received an impressive grimace and frown, upon showing the official a passport sans visa, and a computer printout letter saying I was sponsored to receive one at the border. I was half expecting some troubles, so, I went to find a phone to call my solicitor. $4 later, for 5 minutes worth of calls (the amount demanded by the taxi driver), a liasion showed up to try to assist me with the documentation necessary to get into VN. Fortunately, I had a multiple-entry visa to China, so I had some leverage that I could always go back to China and skip VN. Rather than forego the chance of money, the official found me on the bus (I thought they wouldn't check again, but, I later found out, they would), changed his mood a bit, and offered to help get it sorted out. 2 hours later, I got the final stamp and was legally allowed into VN. I got the last laugh on the taxi drivers, as I had retained my necklace pass and ticket to the "big green bus" that the Chinese side had agreements with to continue the journey on the VN side.
Anyway, return to China for a mention of:
Finally get a chance to get my first blog to the publisher. I am at a resting point in Vietnam, having spent the last 3 weeks moving about Thailand and China. Some thoughts so far, in no particular order, just what comes to mind:
China, 8 years after my first visit, was a brand new country, 5000 years after its founding. The daily articles and stories in the US media hinted at what was happening there. I can verify it, firsthand. Arriving from Bangkok on Egypt Air (its stopover from Cairo to Beijing), I was impressed by the brand new Terminal 3 - built to handle (and impress) the foreigners showing up for the 08 Olympics. Friendly greeting at the passport booth, and I was on a train to the another new building to pick up my baggage.
Juxtapose that with entering VN, 4 days ago, where I received an impressive grimace and frown, upon showing the official a passport sans visa, and a computer printout letter saying I was sponsored to receive one at the border. I was half expecting some troubles, so, I went to find a phone to call my solicitor. $4 later, for 5 minutes worth of calls (the amount demanded by the taxi driver), a liasion showed up to try to assist me with the documentation necessary to get into VN. Fortunately, I had a multiple-entry visa to China, so I had some leverage that I could always go back to China and skip VN. Rather than forego the chance of money, the official found me on the bus (I thought they wouldn't check again, but, I later found out, they would), changed his mood a bit, and offered to help get it sorted out. 2 hours later, I got the final stamp and was legally allowed into VN. I got the last laugh on the taxi drivers, as I had retained my necklace pass and ticket to the "big green bus" that the Chinese side had agreements with to continue the journey on the VN side.
Anyway, return to China for a mention of:
- planter boxes along the well-lit highway from the airport into town,
- spacious, clean bus (one of numerous leading from airport to parts of downtown, at all hours of day and night) for a brisk, 3-stop, 40 min ride to within 2 blocks of my destination
- huge, 8 lane roads leading into and out of the airport
- drivers who, mostly, stayed in their lanes and used turn signals with minimal horn honking
- easy to navigate streets, pedestrian under- and over-passes upon stepping off the bus and onto the 3rd Ring Road NW of city center (Tiananmen Square)
Thus, first impressions were positive, and upheld throughout my 2 weeks in China. I quickly found a friendly neighborhood park, on my orientation walk the first morning, at which I could play jianzi (like hackey sack, but with feathers like a shuttlecock), speaking of which, badminton, and even tennis! The majority of the other participants were middle age (or older) Chinese men and women - yes, I got laughed at by agile grannies when I missed the birdie. But, held my own, and could communicate that I do indeed enjoy playing soccer, and that I was from the US. That was about the extent of the conversatio, except for the frequent use of "hao" (good) and a complaint against the (occasional) strong wind that interfered with the game. Along the same street as the park, I found buns with green, 1 yuan each (about 15 cents), for breakfast - total cost=.30 to feel full. Later, stopped at the Muslim restaurant on the same street (I'll point it out for you on a map if you're there) for a solo dinner - 4 courses, including soup with various parts of lamb I assume, skewered bbq meat, tofu with black, preserved eggs, and a 4th dish I picked out by pointing to the table next to me. Total cost = about $3.5, for the most filling meal I had in China. You can see I was beginning to like this place.
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