Farming, NZ style

I'm currently waiting to go to the airport, my last day in NZ. Somewhat saddened at that thought, since this is quite the cool place to travel, to adventure, to meet interesting people. Yet, the 3 weeks here give me confirmation that I could live here comfortably, so will consider finding work here and coming back to live for awhile.

My last posting was from a farm near Wellington, if I recall. In the week since, I've celebrated Christmas, French style. The second farm, a blueberry farm with cafe and kid's programs, was owned by an American lady and her 10 year old son. She picked me up from the train station and promptly brought me to Christmas eve dinner at her best friend's house - a lady from France who was a great cook. BBQ'd scallops and mussels, potatoes au gratin (does that mean with lots of cheese?), bread with dips appetizers, fresh veggie salads, and tiramisu to top it all off. Nice folks to share the holiday spirit with. My "dirty Santa" (white elephant, in which you could steal another's pick) present was a long NZ pencil. Christmas day was spent with the son's excitement at opening presents, blueberry pancakes I prepared, and a nice dinner with the three other volunteers who were staying there. In the middle of the day, I worked on building a raised garden bed, and finished the day jumping in the river that ran past the property.

After another day finishing the project, I left the farm to start hitching a ride north. I didn't get the full 7 hours to Rotorua, since I left so late in the day. But, when it began to get dark in a country town named Bulls, I stopped expecting a ride and started looking around for a place to put my camping mattress. I got some food at one of the only opened places, and asked a couple if they knew of any other accomodations, since the hostel was locked and the lights were out. That inquiry led to an invitation to crash in their living room for the night. So, it worked out to be another adventure on this trip. They were a friendly middle aged couple with 3 dogs, 2 cats, 2 birds. The man was a weapons consultant for the military, she was a former police officer and Christian missionary to places such as China; none-the-less I felt fairly safe in their company...
The next morning, she suggested I include a sign to my next destination, "Taupo," to go along with my thumb. It worked within 5 minutes of being dropped at the highway junction corner. A guy heading there to work on his friend's house drove me the 3 hours straight through. I bought him some coffee and he shared his Christmas shortbread cookies. Leaving Taupo was a lot more grueling, but I finally made it to Rotorua late that day.

Rotorua might be compared to Yellowstone with a city built around it, with geothermal activity throughout the region and a strong sulphuric stench. Went there specifically for river rafting. The Kaituna river has the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world is the claim. One company I contacted invited me to go down the river with them, politely asking only afterwards if I was young enough to qualify for a working visa (since I told them I was interested in their company)... I'm not. But, I'll see if I can figure out another way to work as a raft guide here.
My last night in NZ was spent lounging in the hotspring waters at the spa on the shore of Lake Rotorua, a refreshing way to wrap up the trip and get warm before heading back to winter in Seattle.

Okay, I'll head out to the airport now. Next posting will be from Seattle.
Cheers.

Lots happening since last post... on to New Zedland

Well, for starters, I'm now 7 destinations into New Zealand, and, of the spectacular places I've seen so far here, this may be the most. I spent a couple of days in Auckland, NZ's biggest city, located in the north. Joined a hostel-organized trip to the beach where the locals proved their reputation as outgoing, friendly people... oh, read my previous posting - I just realized I'd started one but hadn't posted it. It's now being posted, without further editing.

Went from Auckland to Christchurch. The center of the city is, actually, a large Catholic cathedral, to which you can contribute 5 backpacker's budget NZD$ for the privelege of climbing up the clock tower... I don't think enough churches in the States have figured out a way to get the tourist's buck yet. No, if you're wondering, I didn't go up it... maybe if they'd had a bungy jump or slingshot swing from the tower, I would have considered it.

Walked along the Avon river (stream?) that runs through the middle of town, along which you can punt... be punted? How very, quaintly British. Went to i-site (travel info booths located in most destinations, which do an impressive job of marketing the area's attractions and helping with bookings) to get info on the traveler's buses... While there, got invited to a homecooked, birthday celebration dinner by a working holiday-visa traveler from Japan. Good food and pecan pie. I contributed a salsa dance lesson for the birthday boy.

Bypassed the bus option, opting for a ride northerly with a guy from England who posted a ride offer. We stopped in Kaikoura, a beach town famous as a place to view whales and dolphins. Apparently the winds were too strong for the whale boat to go out. So, I enjoyed a stroll through the countryside instead... stopping to talk to a lady working in her yard, who talked about her kids for awhile, then suggested I check out the Irish pub/inn "just down another block." This was a country block, mind you, so it took some time to get there, stopping to let the cows cross the road and pet the shepherd dogs who were chilling in the yard (not exactly supervising/directing the herd across the road). Maybe it was after their work hours by that time. Stopped to talk to a guy who'd been out fishing (for green moki), who suggested, without prompting from me, that I apply to work at schools in NZ... Not a bad idea. Caught several km ride back to in-town campground from man with no fewer than 9 dogs in his truck. Finished evening playing "Ringenwormen" - a die rolling game from Germany, with a couple from the Netherlands, who gave me the best explanation for why they're called Dutch (from a German word for... okay, i forget the explanation) and the country often (in some countries, only) refered to as Holland (which comprise only two of the states that make up the country, but were formerly very powerful/rich). Thus, the correct name is Netherlands... but still leaves one wondering to whom are they the nether world?

Continued on to Nelson, in the north west part of the South Island, which contains the geographic center of NZ, as well as being a pleasant hillside/coastal town with lots of outdoor gear stores, coffee shops and eateries, and one of the fanciest BnB caliber backpacker's joints I've seen, Accents on the Park... Stayed there one night before residing another evening in rooms above a loud rock-playing bar. Low and behold, there's no one at the checkout desk at 8AM on a Sunday morning to check me out so I can go attend to transportation options...

But, I digress. (The most convenient transport option was just to catch the bus that was heading where I wanted to go, that another traveler I knew was taking).
From Nelson, I caught a ride to the southern trailhead of the Abel Tasman National Park coastal track. Hiked 3.5 hours (about 12 kms) the first day, to arrive at a campground (with huts, if I'd been willing to shell out the money for that extra comfort, which I wasn't). Swam in the surf, and chatted up a family who hailed from Pt. Townsend (just across the water from Seattle), who I was then able to acquire food supplies from, as they were leaving the next day. So, their contribution provided a couple breakfasts and lunches, that convinced me to extend my hike to 4 days, 3 nights (from an originally planned 2 days, 1 night). Met nice people along the way, the weather was perfect, and the setting was stunning, meandering through lush green forests overlooking blue-green waters in the coves below. One highlight - gathered huge mussels (5-6 inches) from rocks just offshore in Mutton Cove, which also sheltered a family of seals, including footlong baby seals. Cute!

Finished the hike with slightly sand-papered feet and majorly sandfly-bitten calves, refreshed after days in the pristine landscape and sleeping outdoors. Hitchhiking took longer than expected, but only took 3 rides to retrieve a bag I'd stashed in the bushes at the trailhead, and one more to get the rest of the way to Nelson (picked up within minutes by a nice modern-hippy lady (and her 5 year old son) who talked about climbing to Mt. Everest basecamp recently, and plans to build an off-grid house.

Reference to which brings me to my current location, a self-sustainable farm in the hills of Lower Hutt, just north of the capital city of Wellington. Being on a farmer's schedule the next few days means I'd better sign off for now. Up early to feed the "chocks" tomorrow, after eating some of the eggs they've produced. Goodnight.

Rucking in Auckland

New Zealand is indicating it is "sweet as," as they say here (the rest of the simile is implied). Arrived in Auckland on Wednesday, December 9, 2009, found myself at Nomad's hostel, which is the first I've seen with a hot tub! Took advantage of it that first night, as the temperature was noticably cooler than northern Australia! It was on the rooftop deck overlooking the downtown lights, even out to sea. Took an evening walk along the waterfront which, with ferry terminals, certainly reminded me of Seattle's. It will be a challenge to decide what to do, and what I'll have to come back for in the future - there are a lot of activities and "must sees" here!

I spent the first full day in NZ on the beach just minutes from downtown, organized by the hostel (for $2, including lunch and transport = quite the deal). There were lots of locals out, including a group of boys who wanted to challenge us (foreigners staying at the hostel) to a rugby match (hoping to entice us with offers of whiskey shots), after watching us try to simulate the game... I think I scored a couple of "tries" anyway.

Okay, sending this one out to the blog world.

Met a nice

Last couple days in Oz

I'm down to a couple days left in Oz. been bouncing around among the backpacker hostels, to get a feel for the different personalities that congregate around each one. The YHA was friendly, but a bunch of noisy party kids. Another was dead quiet, no interaction going on between guests. Seems the general rule should be that if you stay at a backpackers hostel, you should be a bit outgoing, friendly even, and willing to initiate conversation with folks.
Tried to track down the rafting companies yesterday, but, of course being Sunday, no one was in the office to discuss future employment. However, with backpackers luck, I walked past a van for one of the companies, asked for a ride back to town, and proceeded to finangle a ride up to the river to chat with the guides and check out their operation. Again, nice to get to the hills, nature - the forests, and rainforest, cover this northern tip of Queensland. Intend to do more rafting tomorrow, on the Tully River, considered Australia's best whitewater ride. More on that afterwards.
Cheers.

Natural Wonders of the World 'n Hitchin a Ride

Made it to Cairns, in Queensland, Australia, destination mecca for those looking to explore the Great Barrier Reef. Which I did up close and personal - scuba diving! Left from Port Douglas on a scuba-outfitted two-hulled cruiser, and went about 1 hour off the coast, to Opal Reef on the outer reef. Looking at the map, the depth went from 30 meters to 1300 meters within to rings on the depth lines! The dropoff to the deep Pacific Ocean. The coral we explored was simply mesmerizing, it's hard to do it justice with words and without photos. Most fantastic was the way it was stacked on top of each other, billowing with different types of coral and the plants that live on it, with canyons and crevices created between formations. The colors of the fish were innumerable. Stop and look long enough, and there was movement and life everywhere. We found Nemo, in his habitat (the frilly-tentacled anemone? as in the film) - he's smaller than he appears on the screen. We were told that Disney neglected accuracy when they didn't indicate that the male of the species will change sex and become the mother in the event that the original mother dies. Australians seem keen to mention mating and gender habits of all their animal species - for example, the cassowary (flightless bird) male is resposible for incubating the eggs (not eating for the 2 month process); the stress of mating kills the male of the quoll? species (something related to the tasmanian devil or tree kangaroo or some other Aussie-only animal. That info was learned at a crocodile (and other animals) farm I visited today, where they lament the fact that, since 6 meter+ crocs were killed off in large numbers up to 1974, their genes may be lost forever. However, since it takes 50 years or more to reach that length, there's still hope for crocs to grow giant again.
First successful hitch hiking in Australia yesterday. Only had about 20km to get to a gorge with a swimming hole, wasn't interested in the $20 bus ride (if it was even offered that day), so hit the road with my thumb out. First 20 minutes or more, 50+ cars passed. Then, one pulled over a couple hundred meters ahead (a van with a family, I think), however, another (young guy my age) pulled over closer to me. That got me a couple kilometers to the Cook Highway junction, at which point, I got picked up quickly, and taken to the turnoff for Mossman Gorge. Halfway down the road, I offered to take a photo for two tourists posing (solo) next to their rental car. They said they'd seen me in the morning (but didn't stop), and then offered to bring me the rest of the way, though they'd just come from there. So, that was nice. The river was refreshing, by the "hippie hole" was unoccupied.
Camped out at a backpackers/RV (vans for the most part) park in Pt. Douglas. Only got a few mozzie bites around my ankles (any word you can shorten and, ideally, rhyme with Ozzie is preferred vernacular). Another ride that would have taken me further up the coast fell through, so I went to the croc farm instead. More on that later. Cheers.

Away from the city

I realized that I often don't recognize how much my surroundings affect my physical and mental condition. It took the last two days (and continuing tomorrow) spent away from the city to notice that I'm much more chill when in inspiring natural environments, and, moreover, being active. Yesterday, I took the ferry from the main harbor, around a couple of coves, to Manly beach, a bit north of Sydney. It is a pristine 1-2km stretch of soft sand beach, where surfers, waders, and volleyball players congregate, while others stroll the promenade through town and overlooking the beach.

I did the requisite jump into the surf, then looked for a game of volleyball to play. Also joined two school teachers who'd just taken up "rocketball" (similar to badminton but with a birdie that flies further and rackets like squash rackets. I gave them a few pointers on proper rocket technique. Strolled through the neighborhoods on the way back to the ferry - saw some prime real estate on the top of the bluff overlooking the sea, with glimpses of the city in the distance. Architecture award goes to the house with the sliding doors that opened up an entire wing of the house to the well-landscaped yard. Including what appeared to be a glass floor in a hallway that revealed the canal-like water feature that ran through the yard. Pulling into the dock past to the backdrop of the night skyline was cool.

The second night in King's Cross was quieter (Sunday night), but only slightly. The noise quieted down before sunrise this time. As the 6 other guys (and 1 girl who was already asleep) rolled in to the room throughout the night, it occurred to me that "backpacker" traveling could determine the fate of the world to come. If everyone had the experience of having to share a room with strangers from around the world, stumbling over their stuff, exposing yourself in varying stages of undress, sharing food, drink, and Internet usage with them, could make the world's citizens more tolerant and cooperative. Or, I suppose inevitable hostel tensions could escalate to hostile intentions towards others.

Speaking of hostels, I'm currently luxuriating in one of the nicest I've ever been in. It is spacious (12' ceilings), clean, and has more amenities than most resorts - most notably, and appreciated, is the huge kitchen with no fewer than 6 gas stoves, 6 fridges, an industrial dishwasher, settings for 40+ people, full array of pots, pans, and utensils, and, get this, bulk containers of the staple seasonings, all for public use. There are "free food" shelves, tea and hot water at the ready - enough to sustain me for several days! This is the Blue Mountain Backpackers joint in Katoomba, 2 hours west, and about 900m elevation gain, from Sydney. To find it, get off the train and glance around til you spot other nice looking travelers, in this case, two German girls, who, societally ingrained or not, have done a bit of pre-planning and booked a place, then follow them to their intended destination (preferably after striking up a conversation with them and offering to carry their grocery bags - or some other gentlemanly gesture)(not from 15 to 30 paces behind, depending on the density of the crowd and the terrain).

The Blue Mountains, are a wildlife Heritage site and national park, a temperate rainforest amongst the sandstone cliffs; cuckatoos and some long-tailed pheasants, pleasant or not, were the only fauna sightings, however. Went for a 3 hour trek, down into a canyon created by sheer cliff faces hundreds of feet high, past an old coal-mining site, through the rainforest (at which point it added to the authenticity by starting to rain on us. It was thoroughly spectacular, with the gum tree forests rolling across the landscape, waterfalls, giant ferns, and misty peaks in the distance. Quite excellent to be away from the skyscrapers, getting exercise, breathing fresh air.

Cooked dinner back at the hostel! It's so nice to have that option, as I get sick of eating out all the time while traveling. Veggie pasta and... bbq'd kangaroo kebabs! They were rather gamey, compared to a cross between lamb and liver. Good though. It's seasoned and packaged in different cuts at the local grocery store, for $10-18/kg. You have to go to a specialty butcher for crocodile meat, apparently. I did a load of laundry (also gratis while we cooked). I'll sit by the fireplace and finish my evening tea now, before going to sleep to have energy for more exploring tomorrow. Guten night.

wanderings

Got ahold of the family in Seattle to wish them a Happy Thanksgiving yesterday. Talked to all but 6-month-old Xavier, who was napping, pre-turkey. I tried to check in to several youth hostels, to spend the weekend downtown, and was told they were booked full for the next 2 nights. Came across a couple who looked like seasoned backpackers, and they directed me to Kings Cross, where I did eventually find a bed, almost in a private room (last spot, since the private is rarely booked in such places). More on the hostel later.

Walked to the wharf, looking for more salsa music (of which I heard none), and stopped to watch some buskers. One of them eloquently, and philosophically, reasoned a coin out of me for his performance, which consisted mostly of a steady stream of humorous comments (something Aussies seem adept at): "looking for a handsome, strong man... you, sir, can you help me... select one." "I've given something I value to you, please offer something in return. Doesn't have to be money, ladies. For you, sir, it does..." For his finale, he juggled three daggers while perched on a 12' pole supported by audience participants holding the ropes.

Back at the hostel, after several kilometers of strolling, including past the impressive St. Mary's Cathedral and other former government (I think) buildings in Hyde Park, which were decorated by displays of light, perhaps best compared to the patterns of the Kremlin in Moscow (though I haven't been there in person, yet). Encountered Germans, French, Korean, and Japanese. Probably some others thrown in, but not verified. I was told by one, that in 10 months in Australia, he'd only encountered 3 Americans... Where is our contigent, people? I should start a collection to support me representing our nation. Around the table, as the discussion turned to the commerce, use, and legalization of a certain horticultural specimen. I opined that it certainly must become legalized at some point in the near future in the US, if for no other reason than to make room in our penal system for other offenders.

In a statistically unlikely scenario, I was recognized by a lady staying there from whom I had asked for directions on my first day exploring Sydney. She has been living and working in Australia for awhile. Anyway, just interesting that we should randomly meet again in such a large city.

Stayed up beyond the point of being tired. Thus, when combined with the noise of club-goers out on the main strip (a dual meaning, since King's Cross is apparently Sydney's red-light district with many strip clubs on that street), made for a very sleepless night. The noise from drunken partyers didn't subside until around 6AM. There was brief respite before the traffic started a few minutes later. So, I'm going to sleep before 10 tonight - rather prudent of me. Or prudish? Oh well, sleep-deprivation hangovers get attended to.

Went to a national park today (I'll find the name later), just South of the city, which had a nice bay in which I snorkeled. Small schools of small fish, a crab, a round, spiky creature. There's also a river that they corral with sand (before it reaches the bay, possibly to keep it deep enough for youngsters to jump into from the sandstone cliffs/rock outcroppings. One thought I needed coaxing, so he suggested we run and jump off in tandem. I leapt first.

Learned a bit more about cricket, apparently Australia's second most popular spectator sport behind rugby, from the guy who took me to the park. Most notable, were the heat-sensing cameras that they use in replays to determine if the ball hit a player or not. They also have mics on the players, at least in friendly matches, to hear their banter. As for the game itself... uh, what do you want to know, exactly?

To sleep now. Goodnight.

fun in the sun

Happy Thanksgiving to all the folks back in the States. Save some pumpkin pie for me.
Last couple of days in Sydney were days under the sun. I checked out the University of Sydney campus, talked to a few students, checked out their galleries/museums, and old sandstone architecture. Found my way to a community center, where I played pick-up basketball for awhile. Wandered through the Chinatown. It wasn't as big as the one in Shanghai last trip...
Finished the day playing soccer with the locals at a grass (unusual in Seattle) field near the house I'm staying at. So, a day of sporting. Does that make me a punter?? I'll figure out its definition before I leave here.

Dude, mate, man - surfing is a righteous blast. Rippin' it (something, yet to be diagnosed) up out there! Yesterday, went to Cronulla beach, for some time on the waves. The instructor was pretty decent, so I got the basics in order, and was able to catch a few waves (no, not in the curl/tunnel?? - lots of terminology to pick up in that sport...)!

Spent Thanksgiving dinner at a German restaurant in the Rocks (Sydney's oldest neighborhood near the docks, where they first established the city). I'll try to get the pic posted of me in the hat-exchange, leg-slap, hop/skip dance that the 3 old guys singing and playing music had some audience participate in. Needed my lederhosen? for that. Instead, just rolled up jeans... and crocs.

Finished the evening at a club on the water, as the salsa tunes caught my hear as I was walking towards the train. Danced to a few songs - better than my first salsa experience 5 years ago in South Korea, when I was told I should come back when I learned the dance. I know enough of it now to shimmy my way through a whole song. Then repeat the same moves with a different partner and it looks like you know what you're doing!

Cheers.

orientating myself to sydney

Day 2, first full day, was enjoyed with a harbor cruise that gives a stunning overview of this city set on various waterways. It is Seattle on a grander scale, with countless bays and jutties making up the environs. There are numerous islands in the bay, parks that dot the shoreline, residential neighborhoods featuring luxurious waterfront properties (think 5-tiered terraced houses with boat docks). The cruise was aboard a large, well-appointed vessel (teak floors, brass bar fittings), and inlcuded a delicious meal (I picked the baked salmon - that Pacific Northwest disposition towards fish, I suppose).

Walked along the waterfront past buskers (two didgerdoo players, a juggler, and silent mime/statue wannabees), around the Opera House (truly an aesthetically pleasing design), and into the botanic gardens (where a variety of colorful birds were also displaying themselves - cuckatoos and?? any orinthologists out there? Stumbled upon the music conservatory, where students were giving recitals for their final exams, so listened to a guitarist for a bit. Checked out the library (I tend to visit those wherever I go), and came across a backpacker's hostel/bar combo that had friendly travel information available.

I'll post a few pics (only a few, because the computer is not cooperating right now) of some of those sights.
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/travelingjp/FirstCoupleOfDaysInSydney

Jony, Alison and Dave's son, brought me to church service tonight... at a bar by the beach. Maybe that's where the Catholic church needs to start holding mass! Live band playing music that wasn't immediately recognizable as Christian rock; it was good. Met some nice folks who wanted to know more about Seattle. What should I tell them, folks? I told them we're mostly liberal, try to be progressive, that the "freeze," in my opinion, is more just an inclination to leave people alone (in a good way - you live your way, I'll live mine), rather than not being social.
What's the verdict out there on this issue of Seattle having a reputation for being a hard place to meet people?

Also said it's a place that has all the big-city amenities, yet is compact enough that they're accessible. And that we try to be into "good causes" (ie environmental conservation, healthy lifestyles). And, that I personally like the outdoor offerings (every outdoor activity is available nearby, in a fantastic natural setting). What do others like about Seattle? (I want to make this more of an interactive blog, to have it initiate discussions... anyone join in?).

I've said my piece for the day. Goodnight.

Adventures Down Under - Australia 2009

G'day from Sydney, Australia. Arrived to summer heat, from Seattle's rain and cold, early Sunday morning, November 22, 2009. Right on shhedule (sic), not bad, considering I was informed that I needed a visa to get into Australia... as I was checking in. Hmm. Must have missed that note. No worries though, mate. It can be done, online, for free, the day you leave, goes through straightaway. So, keep that in mind for future reference.

Ran two terminal-lengths to make the connection, after leaving Seattle 40 minutes late (off the plane at 6:35, international departure at 7:00PM on Friday evening.) Surprisingly comfy Air New Zealand flight, decent food, largest selection of media entertainment on a personal screen. So, thus far, things have been working out good on me.

Met at the airport by family friends, the Rumps', who live in Sydney, and within minutes, the harbor and Opera House were in view, as fantastic as all the photos make it appear. I'll spend more time around the harbor later this week, including a cruise tomorrow.

Met their son, Jony, who works in the travel industry, including escorting American high schoolers up and down the east coast of Oz. Delicious seafood lunch overlooking a jam-packed, sandy beach with surfers and swimmers stretching for hundreds of yards. Realized, of all the coastline in Seattle, not much is accessible beach, even less is sandy, and, typically, not braved by many... So, it was nice to see a lot of coast dedicated to public use. I jumped in right after lunch, the initial cold shocked the jetlag out of me - I think I was expecting SE Asia temperature waters!

Well, wanted to get the first posting sent out, while I'm relaxing in a well laid out, comfortable flat in Shire, a suburb just a few minutes train ride south of "the City's" main downtown zone. More later, if I have some spare moments on this adventure trip. For now, bonus points for finding all the "Aussie" terms I've included (I'm studying the language while here). How many used accurately?
Cheers.