Wednesday, June 16, 2010

More about Germany, mostly military history...

Between Steinsfeld (one-tavern, one-inn-town, same building) and Rothenburg on der Talber, the Talber river flows through a picturesque valley, with a bicycles-only path alongside it. Ruth's father pedals it 2x a week, so I joined him Sunday morning, for a nice ride to the bottom of the plateau on which the town sits. We went up the slope and entered through the thick defensive gates (3 sets of them, between which any enemy forces would be surrouded from above, if they got past one door).

Got to the town square just in time for the 12:00 noon clock animation... a re-enactment of the mayor of the town drinking 3 liters of beer in 1 minute (and presumably not throwing up), to win a bet that saved the town from being razed by the victors some hundreds of years ago (I can't recall who conquered it on that occasion).

I designated myself photographer to no fewer than 4 couples (2 with families) who were taking individual shots of each other with the beautiful ancient town as the backdrop. Visited the Christmas store in May and tried the doughnutty "snowballs" that an entrepreneurial baker created to be a unique pastry from that town..

Appreciated the home-cooked meals Ruth's Mom made, which offered a sampling of Bavarian foods, including potato-parsley balls in broth, stewy meat, and delicious yogurt! Which brings up one of several conversations I've already had in Europe comparing health care systems. While eating yogurt, I was asked what mine consists of, so I pointed to the yogurt and said it was my health care plan. They went on to talk about their system of universal coverage. Too lengthy to go into at the point, you'll have to do your own research into that.

Moving on to Munich, named Munchen in Germany. It's the capital of the Bavarian province (which is country's biggest), and, by many, considered the capital of culture in Germany. Historical reasons have dictated why Berlin is the capital instead. Perhaps most significant of which is that Munich was the birthplace of the Nazi movement, where Hitler made his power play, Kristalnacht happened, and one of the most famous photos of him (next to the lions) was taken. There are many easily-overlooked monuments or symbols throughout the city paying testimony to the time.
I went on a 3+ hour "free" guided-tour (pay what you think it's worth) of the city, that led us past many of the significant locations, replete with a non-stop verbal commentary/lecture about the history and culture of Munich (organized through Wombat hostel, if you're interested). Saw the only four structures to survive the bombings (the tallest, i.e. church tower and the town hall clock tower) because they were used by the pilots for sighting. Watched (another) Glockenspeil clock parade, this one symbolizing the Catholic victory over Protestants, as well as the barrelmakers (as in beer) trying to ull their country out of a depression by dancing in the streets during the Plague, to encourage people to return to normal lives (i.e. going to the beergardens). Which reminds me, I drank beer or wine nearly every day I was in Germany, and continued on in France...

As for France, I took the overnight train from Munich to Paris (rather miserable, it was, though I felt a bit refreshed after salsa dancing the last evening in Munich) and arrived early in the morning to the city of sidewalk cafes, bread, cheese, and wine (yes, those things really do define the city).

Went straightaway to the Louvre and spent a fascinating 4 hours perusing the art there (and not covering the whole place...). It is a massive building, with multiple wings and galleries to explore. They had a special exhibition on ancient Persian civilizations... blanking on the name of it right now. On display were massive stone columns, with bulls-heads supporting huge cross-beams (I think the temple roof structure). Yes, saw the famous eyes, though they look bigger in the movies. More later. Any comments or requests, or travel advice at this point (for 10 days of traveling to finish my trip)?

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